It does however not think a bright future

It is called the Golden Triangle. Between the 1st, 3rd and the 9th arrondissement of Paris, two not place Vendôme, beats the heart of the jewellery () French. Craftsmen jewellers, small workshops, "major" producers work, often for several generations. But outside, no sign left guessing their existence. He must venture into the great dark stairs of these typically Parisian buildings to reach the Holy of Holies. Is not looking. Question of security and confidentiality. After banal wooden doors, a sas where the visitor is assessed as a lab rat is, for the better equipped, the last rampart. Inside, the hands of jewellers, damaged and blackened, carve, liment, weld, together with patience and attention to detail of the jewels in relying on an ankle. Thin piece of wood, it is the centerpiece of their set. At the end of the day, in small clear plastic bags containing this bracelet Cartier Panther, here, Van Cleef & Arpels necklace, a ring of Dior, return to sleep from a safe.

The languages of Jewellers are difficult to untie. If they are all very proud of their craft, rare are those who accept to be cited. "Our clients could be hurt", "it is our standing and our jobs...". "" The silence is very fortedans this particular universe, which operates at the confidence and where, for example, written contracts are still figure of exception ", confirms Laurence Nicolas, Director of the Dior jewelry division. Difficult therefore to apprehend the changes experienced by this sector since 15 years, long remained a world away from the world. And to make the anxiety that accompanies. "We live that has been the automotive industry in the 1970s." With the contribution of the CAO - DAO, rapid prototyping and laser welding machines, we've gone directly Zola in the 21st century. "There are those who had the intellectual and financial resources to make this shift and other", analysis Pierre-Marie Bernard, President of the Fnamac (National Federation of crafts and of creation). Fairly representative, the jeweller works alone in a Studio above his shop, in conjunction with a network of artisans, foundry, sertisseurs, polishers, lapidary, diamond.

A fragmented landscape

"Small business", France of jewellery, goldsmiths and jewellery manufacturing represented a turnover of EUR 1.65 billion last year. The only jewellery-jewellery was live 3.375"(l) companies employing 11.975 employees. The craftsman to the world number one, Cartier, from independent creators and the workshops of 5-100 employees, subcontractors or the "Place", the profession offers a fragmented landscape. The overwhelming majority of businesses are in effect of the TPE with maximum 2 employees. However, if the manufacturers with more than 20 employees are barely 3, they comprise 54 of the workforce.

In the 1990s, almost all of the same houses have lost their family ownership. Each integrated groups, with the image of Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, who joined Richemont, or Fred and Chaumet, entered the fold of LVMH. Others are passed under the influence of financiers, like Mauboussin with Dominique Frémont. "This has significantly accelerated change," says Pierre-Marie Bernard. To the chagrin of some, these groups resumed in hand the creation. "Previously, it could place our drawings." Today, we work at the margin by proposing an improvement, a technical method to machine a part of the coin. This is what houses we expect now. "Marketing has changed the business," said a manufacturer. To exist outside of the subcontract, and jewellers have launched a brand or purchased one such Marchak, by a workshop of fine jewelry. But work subcontracted with an own collection requires a solid cash flow and export-oriented strategy. In short, many efforts for small structures, with the key to any relative notoriety.

The burst of Chanel, Dior and Vuitton

Groups, whether or not they have workshops internally, were also streamlined their supply. "Artisans long were unavoidable, the mock-up to the end of the string. "Now, order donors want integrated workshops, A to Z, to control everything," says Pierre-Marie Bernard. Quality control is significantly reinforced and the workshops are noted. As for the price... "More quality control increases, price is drawn down!" laments this subcontractor, adding: "We are the bankers of the profession." We are moving the metal, and the days where we were a margin on the stones are gone: now, our customers provide us them.

Small revolution, Chanel, in 1993, Dior, in 1999, Vuitton, in 2001, landed in the trade. "Today, between 80 and 90 of the market of jewellery is without mark." But the new customer categories require something other than the anonymous play of the jeweler of proximity or traditional jewellery of place Vendôme. "There are places to take," says Albert Bensoussan, Director of the Vuitton watchmaking & jewellery Department. The resounding arrival of these "small youth" place Vendôme pushed their venerable competitors to renew their collections more often. The deadlines were very shortcuts. And if these "incoming" are subcontractors of new opportunities, they have adopted the same methods as the "historic" and also require them a very high level of quality and services. "Many brands apply the same approach: a segment fine jewelry, with often unique pieces, to 100,000".

"euros or more, a collection for insiders, with parts reproducible, emblematic of their style, between 50,000 and 100,000 euros, finally to access collections, from 1,000 to 8,000 euros", adds Albert Bensoussan. With a better profitability on entry and the means of range and a strong gain of image and prestige with the high jewellery. Workshops to adapt.

"The big change has been the global development of our customers." "There has been an explosion of volumes, with, for us, a true challenge for production in series," analyses the pattern of a workshop who works for the Place. It does however not think a bright future. This year, the order book remains desperately blank beyond the month of December. Its two largest customers might resume their purchases in March... "Meanwhile, that will I make my employees", is concerned about out loud.

Rise of Asia

Then, to remain competitive, offer more affordable pieces, some made the choice to outsource abroad or settle. As this important Parisian society, specializing in the high jewellery, worked for a very small number of customers. Within ten years, it has increased from 15 to 65 employees, bought a workshop in Paris, opened a unit very mechanized in Belgium "sector is in full technological revolution" and mounted a structure... in China. It was 100 pieces per year. It book 10,000. But input and medium range. As to whether that... To manufacture abroad remains, in the French luxury, a taboo. "Confidential!", says that another professional, installed two years in China, in Guangdong province. With a French team and a Hong Kong investor, he has created a workshop of fine jewelry. 40 Employees today, it hopes to climb to 200. "All I can say is that I work for the Western market, but with a large eye on the Chinese market: local luxury brands are to develop considerably."

In this world of silence, Asia is decidedly more noise. Even if the Italy remains, by far, the first competitor from French manufacturers. But it is like an old enemy that we know well. In contrast to Asia. The economic mission to Canton confirmed "a strong acceleration in 2005 and 2006 of relocation in China of craftsmen jewellers and French companies in the sector". And to add that this movement is accompanied by a rise in local production range.

A study conducted in 2004 by cabinet Algoé Consultants at the request of the Union française BJOP (jewellery, jewellery, gold, stones and beads) led to the same findings. But it also drew attention to the loss of geographical proximity, the risk of deadlines, quality and confidentiality issues, lack of flexibility. Exactly, emphasized, that can still bring the French workshops. This is why the French Union of the BJOP decided to react by launching, in June 2006, a label of origin "Jewellery of France" (see box). About fifty workshops are for the moment on the ranks. Patrice Fabre, independent jeweller, is not a party because four years ago, he began to crimp its products in Thailand. "It must be realistic." I have seen colleagues persisting to manufacture in France and deposit balance. The seam here is six times more expensive than over there. I have increased my margin of 20 and I am 20 cheaper. "Difficult for the layman, to see the difference.

"Exceeded debate."

As brands, have crossed the Rubicon Only Alain Némarq, Director General of Mauboussin, admits that in 2004, with a view to relaunching it subcontracted parts in China and Thailand. "This is obviously not say that we have produced predominantly in Asia!" We are in an area where the repository of offshoring has no meaning. "We are forced, on some parts, with large stones, making nearby, for security reasons," he said. Mauboussin sort a collection by year, between 20,000 and 25,000 parts, and order today to ten workshops of size medium. In Paris, Italy, China and Thailand.

In Cartier, heroin, it is the mark. Not the place of manufacture. "I'm first"made by Cartier"!", insists Bernard Fornas, Cartier International President. This "giant" has its fine jewelry shops rue de la Paix. He has also bought the very renowned workshop Brown and works with a few Parisian subcontractors. His Swiss factory of La Chaux-de-Fonds, for"jewelry", has a strong development. 50 Employees today, it should go to 150 in three years. "To have manufactured in Asia is in no way an objective for Cartier.". But no one knows the evolution in the medium term. Today and for years to come, our manufacturing in France and Switzerland are quite competitive.

"The debate on the place of manufacture is exceeded!, it annoys the jeweler's independent Lorenz Bäumer, rising star of the Vendôme place.". The real question is whether what I create is dream, if it is a work of art! "Compares it French jewellers to wine producers who did not anticipate dizzying advances of their foreign competitors. "As a jeweler, I am a conductor." I want to have the best piece of music to play, with the best training, the best soloists, and this in the most beautiful room of the world. For me, this room is the place Vendôme...