Before the arrival of winter, here is a small batch of new meritorious addresses which honour the table accurately without burning fingers. First, Thoumieux, whose decor was completely upset and where Jean-François trap is finally behind the stoves. It delivers a benefit to what it was entitled to expect from the leader of the highest caliber, even if it did work as dans un néo-brasserie smart registry dusted a mixed of Ducasse-Spoon & Costes (a small "gastro" is planned, in the 1erétage, in February 2010). Some smart ideas, wild squid prepared to the carbonara (with Squid tagliatelle, egg, rail, cream); the pig cooked slowly, breast skin crisp onions green lentils of Puy; the fish of the day cooked with carrot juice, lemon green-coriander. Without forgetting the dessert the churros, heavy indulgence in funfair, revisited-"light" and chic. Jean-François Piège, interested in wine, has built a very balanced in its cellar book. Thoumieux, all good.
Of waterzooi to ceviche
The range of spring, held by a tandem of the château of Ermenonville, breathe honesty, a rare commodity these days. Nicolas, Chief, relies on a strong implementation, supported by Cédric, training, which makes hand pulp before service in room pastry dessert (the first at the counter is most pleasant). Two maps, one inspired bistro for lunch and another more "gourmet" evening. At lunch, impeccable pressed rabbit, smoked bacon and Arugula, cod roasted seasonal vegetables bright natural; Delicious creamy pie with a slight chocolate orange zest; and, in the end, a fresh addition. Evening (we should have two passages), our menu began with a noble porcini in ravioli, followed by a sea (St. Pierre and prawns in mild curry) waterzooi bright (the native Chief of Flanders could disappoint) and a play of beef, foie gras, potato charlotte, fully under control. The indigent cellar is in review.
This is after his son Roberto, said Tico, Mr. Najar entitled his restaurant Tico (in the basement a cosy bar to discover), he animates with heat. Paintings by Paul Desnoyer and Jean-Louis Sieff photos on the walls, ceramic Vallauris here and there and General comfort of a dining room where we are not on each other. In the kitchen, two former home Rostang who built a malignant map to please everyone. Ceviche of bream, prawns saint-jacques, pink grapefruit, coriander fresh, green lemon, copieux and pleasant, prawns in fricassee orecchiette aigre-doux and coriander, marriage effectively and cohérent, "Tico Burger" beef and duck, Marmalade (mixée with cumin and cannelle) rouges onions to the delicious oriental fragrance. Low wine selection.
Concerto for teppanyaki
Ex-master the restaurant of the Hotel Nikko Benkay, Naoto Masumato teppanyaki opened the week last kitchen Concert. Now only behind his counter, before his plate, he gives a nice teppanyaki concerto, priced considerably milder than the Benkay, in a setting it is true more banal, needed emergency make it warm. The terrine of foie gras and eel teryaki spice shanso, taste power that transports, we has delighted, rest, seafood sautéed in the soup of algae safrané, grilled Prawns légèrement outbreaks in cognac, vermicelli of soy, etc., though well made, remains a typical Japanese. Many good wines cellar at correct prices. Large bémol, a deficient air extraction system to review very quickly (our clothes were impregnated fried out).
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